Frequently Asked Questions
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Construction & Schedule
Schedule of construction may vary depending upon a number of factors including weather, complexity of work etc.
Lay Out Pool
Tile or Brick
Construction Debris Removed From Pool
Tile Is Cleaned
Chemicals Are Balanced
Pool Operation Instructions
Pool Is Now Ready To Use
What are softscapes, and hardscapes?
What should I spend on my landscaping project?
Should I question the landscapers plan, or his / her ideas?
When should I trim my plants?
What are the different sun distinctions, such as full sun partial sun and so on?
Full Sun – Receives at least 6 hours of sun a day. Partial Sun – Receives at least 4 hours of sun a day. Dappled Shade – Produced by trees and creates a moving pattern of sunlight and shade. This shade allows for the widest range of gardening options for growing both shade- and sun-loving plants. Open Shade – Created in a north-facing yard for as many feet out as shade is cast by an adjoining wall, fence or building. The distance the shade is cast will vary with the season. This type of shade can be a challenge for growing shade-loving plants in the middle of summer as the hot afternoon and evening sun may cause burning of leaves. Medium Shade – Occurs where open shade is further obscured by trees. Medium shade also occurs under decks and south-facing entrances with no direct sun. Dense shade – The deepest shade, found where tall walls and fences block all but the narrowest strips of light. Dense shade can also occur under trees with dense foliage such as Norway maples and some conifers. Plant selection for dense shade is limited. Dry shade – Any of the previous shade situations involving mature trees can also be dry shade. Dry shade occurs because most trees are shallow-rooted, removing nutrients and water from nearby plants.
When is the best time to seed my lawn?
What is the difference between seeding and sodding a lawn?
When should I plant?
Why should I hire a professional to design my landscape plan?
Why should I landscape my backyard?
How do I prepare my pool for summer?
- If you use a solid winter cover, first drain off any standing water so that it doesn’t spill back into the pool
- Carefully remove the cover, sweep it and lay it out to dry
- This is a good time to clean the cover, either with a cover cleaner or water and a scrub brush
- Once it is thoroughly dry, fold and store in a dry place, out of sunlight
- Inspect the entire pool carefully for damage that may have taken place during the off season-especially leaks and tears in the vinyl liner or breaks and cracks in the plaster or tiles
- After inspection add water until the level reaches about halfway up the skimmer opening
- Remove any debris with a leaf net
- Make sure your pump, skimmer and filter are working properly
- If the filter was not chemically cleaned at the end of last season, clean it using a filter cleaner to remove hardened deposits which can hamper filter performance
- Run the pump while you vacuum
- Brush the pool thoroughly
- After running the pump for at least five hours, fill a clean plastic container with a quart of pool water and bring it in for a thorough analysis We will provide easy instructions for making the necessary adjustments to your pool’s water balance
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How do I prepare my pool for winter? / How to close the pool?
- Fill a clean plastic container with a quart of pool water and take it to your pool professional for a thorough analysis. Your dealer will tell you exactly what your water needs to protect it from bacteria and algae during the winter. For many pools, a final addition of shock, top up of sanitizer, and an initial dose of algaecide will be the only treatment the water needs.
- Perform basic housekeeping chores: Brush and vacuum. Remove, clean, and store the skimmer basket and pump’s strainer basket. Clean the filter using a filter cleaner to quickly remove deposits that are apt to harden over the winter, saving you the extra work at the beginning of next season.
- For In Ground Pools: Put an equalizer plug in the skimmer (it is not necessary to lower the water level). Always follow the instructions in your pool owner’s manual if it says to do it differently.
- Drain the water from the pump, filter, heater, inline chlorinators, hoses and pipes.
- It is recommended that you can disconnect the entire unit and store it indoors.
- If you do, follow the manufacture’s recommendations for lubrication and storage.
- Use winterizing plugs to close off the return lines, vacuum line and skimmer. If you use a skimmer equalizer it is not necessary to drop the water.
- The purpose of covering a pool is to keep leaves and debris out of the water while it isn’t in use.
- If nothing foreign gets into the pool, there’s nothing to alter the water’s chemistry, so you won’t have to add chemicals to compensate for changes.
- It’s important to use a solid pool cover that fits well and is designed for your pool.
- If you decide not to cover your pool or to use a mesh cover, check the sanitizer and pH levels twice a month during the off-season and run your filter continuously 4-5 hours per day.
How often should I check my water?
What size heater is right for my pool or hot tub?
How do I clean my filter?
Cartridge type filter – Rinsed weekly, soaked in cleaner when water is changed, and replaced every two years.
- Remove the cartridge from the filter housing following the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Use a garden hose with a straight flow nozzle to wash down the filter element.
- Work from the top down holding the nozzle at a 45 degree angle and wash all the pleats with emphasis between pleats.
- Rinse until all dirt and debris gone.
- For all spa cartridges and elements used in swimming pools where perspiration, suntan lotions, and other oils are present; soak the element for at least one hour (over night is most effective) in a commercial filter cleaner, such as Filter Fresh.
- Rinse the cartridge again to remove oils and cleaning solution.
Sand type filter – Should be cleaned yearly and all sand changed every four to five years.
- Backwash and drain filter.
- Turn pump off.
- Place filter valve in the backwash position.
- Pour commercial filter cleaner into pump strainer.
- Turn pump on to fill filter.
- Turn pump off when water appears in the backwash sight glass.
- Leave filter in the backwash position and allow to soak 24 hours.
- Backwash the filter until the water in the sight glass is clear.
- Resume normal filter operation
What is a concrete pool and its details?
Concrete is the oldest method and the most labor intensive on the site. These pools are completely built on the site with steel-reinforced concrete. This allows almost infinite design flexibility. Pool builders can use one of three methods to create a concrete shell: guniting, shotcreting, and pouring concrete. The most common – gunite and shotcrete – are pneumatically applied (applied with air pressure). The concrete is shot out of a nozzle and piled onto the earthen walls of the excavation and over the steel rebar reinforcement. Pneumatically applying concrete was not the first method used to create a concrete shell. Originally, concrete pools were made of poured concrete, meaning workers create a set of forms and pour the concrete into the form to hold it into vertical walls. Shotcrete and guniting became the most common methods of concrete construction because they don’t require forms, making it quicker, less labor intensive and less expensive than pouring concrete. Like all concrete structures, these pools can last decades when properly constructed. Improperly constructed, however, they can crack from ground movement caused by freeze/thaw cycles, high water tables, hillside locations, or by seismic activity. The cost goes up in areas with these conditions because extra reinforcing is needed to prevent movement. Because these pools are constructed entirely on site, the quality depends on the job’s craftspeople.
What is a Vinyl Pool?
What is a fiberglass pool?
How long does it take to install a pool?
How much does pool service cost?
How long will the pool last?
How long before I have to redo the surface?
There are as many answers to this question as there are pool surfaces:
- Tile and stone surfaces, considered the most permanent, can be expected to last decades. Some tile or stones may have to be replaced and reinstalled if they pop out. The grout should last approximately 20 years.
- Plaster, the most common surface for concrete pools, needs resurfacing approximately every 12 to 15 years.
- The life of a vinyl liner depends on the quality of the liner and how well the water chemistry is balanced. Putting a cover on the pool will also extend the liner’s life. By some accounts, a vinyl liner’s life span is anywhere from six to 15 years. Some are guaranteed to hold water for up to 20 years. However, homeowners may want to replace them sooner as patterns begin to fade.
- Pebble and other aggregate surfaces are said to last as long as 15 to 20 years.
- Paint usually needs reapplication within 3 years.
- Fiberglass pool manufacturers say their pools never need resurfacing.
Wouldn't it be easier and cheaper if I service the pool myself?
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